A lot has happened since I last blogged. Since then, I’ve left a nice, comfortable but nonprogressive place (Dubai) for a dirty, smelly, backward place (Bangalore) that has one advantage: an IT boom feeding off the woes of the IT industry elsewhere in the world.
Despite what you may have heard of the place (“up and coming”, “happening”, “high-tech powerhouse”), all that technology is what they create. They use good technology in the workplace. However, there is disturbingly little penetration of technology into the average household (even IT workers’ households). There’s so little demand for things like proper broadband, air conditioning, gas heating, digital cable, refrigeration, vacuum cleaners, DVD players, even things like chainsaws, that when you try to purchase one of these things, they’re far more expensive than the international market, and the common excuse is, “you’re lucky this is even available here.” It’s hard to find a decent place to purchase a laptop, and it’s going to be very overpriced compared to the rest of the world. It’s about as hard to find accessories for it such as a spare battery, because not enough people buy them. Considering that the average IT person earns about INR 300,000 a year here (US$6600 a year, with heavy taxation — about 30%), it’s that much harder to pay for what would be perhaps half a month’s salary for someone in the US.
I think the attitude sucks, too. People skimp wherever they can, usually unnecessarily so. They simply have no concept of quality of service or goods. Frequently they are callous in their behaviour. They tend to prefer to adhere to the letter rather than the spirit of the law. And they favour things like academic performance far too much when evaluating a person for a job — they asked me for my marksheets from grades 10 and 12! Also, people will try to avoid doing work as far as possible, even if it means losing a lucrative customer.
The whole place is dirty. Before you get off the plane, the smell of detritus rotting and urine fills your nostrils. Since the previous Indian government banned cow slaughter, there are dirty cows all over the streets, and finding cowpats on the ground (frequently after you’ve stepped in them) is a commonplace occurrence.
IT companies expect their (poorly-paid) employees to work ten, eleven, twelve hours a day without overtime pay. People are happy with it (because they have work at all). Suffice it to say, I’m going to break with the trend and work just the 40 hours a week (A week! A week! Not a day! You can tell I was tired . . .) I’m required to as far as I can meet deadlines. Let’s see what they do, especially since (a) I’m quite productive and (b) they need people badly.
After about five or so weeks of looking for a job, I landed one that I would consider decent by Indian standards. I’m now at Manhattan Associates as a Software Analyst, writing C++/CORBA code for their connector architecture and currently involved in porting duties. The pay is nothing like what I made at Ericsson, of course (compare $11,000 a year with $67,000 + bonus). It’s enough to live comfortably, where “comfortably” means “forget about gadgets, pal.”
I’ve seen some of the housing IT people live in, if it can be called that. Frequently it’s a 8ft x 10ft room with an attached shower room with two beds shared by two people. There is no space for a writing desk or a computer table or any such thing, Just the bed is provided. Even people earning more than I am often opt for such hopeless housing.
Homes here are usually not designed by an architect. Most of them are quite inconvenient to live in, frequently with hopeless ventilation and lighting. I’ve seen only one apartment so far that I really liked, and that was far away (with poor transportation options).
Driving here is like Tetris — you only look ahead of you and try to fill in gaps. If someone finds that you’re about to hit them, they honk their horn, and you’re supposed to rectify yourself. The result is that noise and air pollution are both through the roof,
One thing is true: people try to help, whether or not they can. This is taken to an extreme — ask for directions; if the person knows, he will walk with you until you see the destination. If the person doesn’t know, he’ll misguide you with a poor guess (just so he doesn’t look ignorant).
People at government offices exemplify all that is wrong with Indian society today. They’re tardy, they avoid work, they will refuse to do anything until they’ve received a bribe, they’ll attempt to find a technicality, any technicality, not to process your request, they’ll try to flaunt their power over you and liable to unceremoniously have you kicked out of the office if they feel that their fragile prestige is not being honoured, and they’re generally braggarts. In short: avoid dealings with the government, wherever possible.
People here try to grab money shamelessly. This might mean lowballing you (a common technique not just limited to used-car and insurance salesmen). It might also mean misleading you about their product from the start, and then giving you a simper when you object. They’ll also say things like “yes, item X is in stock, come now”, then 25 miles later, “we’re sorry, the shipment won’t arrive for a week.”
It’s a whole other world, beyond the imagination of most people in the developed and better-developing world, and you bet I’m going to try as hard as possible to get myself out of here as soon as possible.
In other news, I’ve been diagnosed as a diabetic (Type 2). This was about two weeks ago. My father (a doctor) noticed I’d had the classical symptoms of diabetes (rapid weight loss, a lot of thirst, a lot of voiding), so he had some blood tests done on me. On two consecutive days, my fasting blood glucose level was 298 mg/dl and 365 mg/dl respectively. (Normal range is 70-104 mg/dl; 104-126 mg/dl is impaired glucose tolerance; and 126 mg/dl and above is diabetes.) We went to the hospital where my sister is interning, the Christian Medical College Hospital, Vellore, TN, where my blood sugar levels at fasting and peak levels were measured in the 300-450 range, which is very high. Additional tests suggested I’d been diabetic with high blood sugar for at least two months, and a new occurrence (ketosis) indicated that my pancreas had shut down due to the high sugar levels poisoning it and unbalancing my body chemistry. I was promptly admitted to the hospital for five days and given regular injections of insulin.
Fortunately I’ve been weaned off the insulin now and am on metformin (2 grams a day) and Amaryl (2 mg a day), and that’s controlling the blood sugar fairly well. I also burn about 400-450 kcal a day on an exercise bicycle and am on a 1600 kcal reducing diet. I’ve started losing weight already; I should be within normal range in a couple of months.
This weekend I’m visiting my sister, handing off a new laptop that she feels is necessary for her to be able to apply to various UK universities. It’s a Compaq Presario 2591AT, with a 2.4 GHz Pentium 4-M, 640MB of DDR266, a Radeon IGP 340M, a combo CD-RW/DVD-ROM drive (that I promptly switched to RPC-1 using Lite-on’s utility), 30GB hard disk, 15″ XGA TFT, USB 2.0, FireWire, Bluetooth, etc. It’s better than my box.
I bought it without an OS installed, and it came with Mandrake CDs. I’ve put Windows on it for her sake.
Here’s hoping things work out soon. I’m giving serious thought to pursuing a Master’s program in Sweden or Australia or some such place. At least it’ll get me out of here and add to my credibility. By the time I get admission, it’ll be this time next year, and I’ll have had an additional year of experience, this time in enterprise framework development. Maybe I’ll be employable enough by the end of my Master’s degree in order to be able to settle in a developed country. Time will tell.
Whew, that’s quite an entry. Time for me to have dinner, take my meds and sleep. I have a long day ahead of me.